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Tuesday
21Oct2008

Zinfandel

Zinfandel, a much misunderstood grape, is now flourishing as a serious contender in the wine world. People who previously poo-pooed the product now pander to its plethora of palatious pleasures. One of the reasons I like Zinfandel is that you can get a quality bottle of wine for about 1/3 the price of a comparable Cabernet.

Zinfandel came to America in 1816 as a table grape from Hungary. In Italy, the same grape now goes by the name of "Primitivo." It steadily climbed the ranks and by 1885 became California's number one wine grape by a wide margin. Then came the depression of 1893 and the Phylloxera root louse that, together, had wiped out almost all of California's vines by 1900. For the next seventy years, Zinfandel took the back stage as a working table-wine grape while Napa Valley built its reputation on Cabernet. But in the 80s and 90s a new breed of winemaker started working with the grape and the resulting wines have created a resurgence of interest.

Zinfandel is known to be peppery and sharp. Classic Zinfandels like those made by Turley Wine Cellars are big, bold, and peppery, with plenty of spice and structure. Zinfandel is traditionally suggested as a foil for wild boar, vennison, elk meat, buffalo steak, woolly mammoth, and anything else gamey and hearty. So how did a vegan like me get into Zinfandel?

It was with my first glass of Rosenblum Rockpile Zinfandel. Since then, I have become a huge fan of Rosenblum owner Kent Rosenblum and his winemaker Jeff Cohn. Together, they have led the way to a new era of smooth wine made with Zinfandel and Syrah grapes. Where they lead, I follow. 

These wines have intense berry/cherry flavors that explode on your tongue. They aren't sweet, but they are all fruit and no leather. Jeff Cohn is famous for making wines that finish with a vanilla toast aroma that makes your lips curl into a smile.

I will drink good Zinfandel with almost any meal. Since I'm vegan, I don't need to worry about pairing wines with fish or veal. I often enjoy a glass of Zin with a little chocolate or all by itself either before or after dinner. I'm sure I could get better at pairing wine with food, but my philosophy is - go for the best wine and the best food and you'll find a way to enjoy them together.

Besides Cohn and Rosenblum, There are others making wonderfully smooth Zinfandels. I try new Zinfandels all the time, and each year is different. Unfortunately, the runs are small, so by the time I mention them they are often gone or the prices are out of sight. But if you try something you think is exceptional, just post a response below and tell other people about great Zinfandel.

And remember, the younger the wine, the better it is to keep it in the cellar, but if you must drink it, be sure to let it breathe for half an hour or longer first.

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